MONGOLIA 2006

TWO HOURS AT GANDAN MONASTERY, ULAANBAATAR
This was two of the most rewarding and enjoyable hours I've ever spent on any of my travels. I don't scurry around with a guidebook in a situation like this, but just let myself take it all in as directly as possible, then read about it later. I've tried to be as accurate and informative as possible, but if anyone reading this catches any errors or can offer additional information, I'd appreciate hearing from them. If this had been the only thing that I had seen in UB, it would have been worth the effort.

The entry gate. Gandantegchenling translates approximately as "the great place of complete joy". I spent an utterly joyous two hours immersed in colorful atmosphere and the pleasure of watching the Mongolians enjoy themselves on a sunny warm fall day, knowing that it is a minor miracle that this place survived the destruction in 1938. Two young monks. In the background on the left is the tower of the Narantuul Hotel, where I stayed in UB. Something old, something new.
This is the Migjed Janraisig, dedicated to the Bodhisattva of Compassion. It was built in 1911. Inside is a huge statue of the Buddha. The original was destroyed by the communists in 1938, but a new one was completed in 1996. It stands 26.5 meters high, weighs 20 tons and is made of gilded copper. Unfortunately, no photography is allowed inside. But this is one of my favorite pictures from outside. The Dechengalpa Datsan with a stupa in front. "Datsan" is Mongolian for "institute". Gandan has 10 datsans and temples. There are around 900 monks.
There were a number of family groups like this: the elder person dressed to kill in the most beautiful del and the younger people wearing western clothes. Each stupa is surrounded with prayer wheels. The practice seems to be to circle each one spinning each wheel as one goes.
This lady didn't miss a one. Another couple takes a break during their visit.
There was a large flock of obviously well-fed pigeons. I loved the similiar color scheme, but contrasting style of dress of this lady and her companion.
A young monk pauses for a moment. Two monks converse while another takes a call on his cell phone. Mongolia, like other emerging countries, is skipping a whole generation of technology and has gone straight from no phones to cell phones.
Knowing that thousands and thousands of monks were taken from their monasteries and killed in the 1930's makes seeing them back and striding confidently about their business very satisfying. The communists tried to stamp out Buddhism, but only drove it underground for seventy years. Did I say that cell phones are ubiquitous?
A grandchild gets a lift. There were a number of these huge incense burners around, some with incense smoke wafting out of them. It seemed to be a custom to touch them while walking around them.
Probably rice and cooking oil being taken from a storage area to a kitchen. This gentleman was slowly walking around the grounds. I loved his jacket, which he is wearing over a brown del.
A lucky grab shot. The golden lion certainly left me intrigued about what lays behind that big red door.
One of the roof ornaments. Sorry to say, I don't know what the symbolism is (yet). This is the Gungachoiling Datsan, which was established in 1809 by the 4th Bogd Jebzundamba. It was revived in 1990 and this new temple was built in 2001. The works of the Tibetan scholar Panchen Sonadgava are used for training and practice.
One of my favorite buildings, the Vajradhara Temple, built in 1840. Daily services are held here. This delightful statue was in front of the temple. From the bottom to the top: an elephant, a monkey, a rabbit and, I think, another elephant.
A gentleman in a grey del makes his obeisance to a foo dog at the entrance gate. The entrance gate from the inside.
A green horse painted on a frieze over the main gate. The gift shop on the monastery grounds. There is also a row of shops on the street leading up to Gandan. One can get everything from jewelry and ritual items to full monk's clothing. I came home with a ring and a little brass horse.
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